he Chinese are people that love to get together and enjoy good cheer with good friends. There are few things enjoyed more than a fine meal crowded around the round tables that are so much a part of the culture and the culinary experience, steaming hot dishes emerging from the kitchen to be placed on the Lazy Susan, and toasts being jovially offered back and forth to demonstrate respect and give the toastee honor. Drinking is representative of the ebullient spirits of the Chinese people; the more the merrier—in terms of numbers of friends and numbers of toasts.

Whether at a formal meal or in a more casual setting, the routine is similar. Each guest at the table is provided a shot glass. The guest of honor will never be allowed to fill his/her own glass; to allow this to happen is a sign of an inattentive host. To start the evening off, the host will offer a toast to all those seated, showing he is happy they have come and have given him "face" (面子) by doing so. Each person then empties his/her glass. After this first round, everyone toasts each other individually, each toast a declaration of friendship and bringing honor to the person toasted. The words "gan bei" (乾杯), or "dry glass", will be heard repeatedly; this prodding on the part of the person toasting is a manifestation of the Chinese passion for camaraderie, and is meant as a sign of respect. Seen in this light, it can be impolite to leave your glass "un-dry", though sipping is of course not something completely disallowed.

As the fun continues, revelers will often begin "finger-guessing games"(猜拳). There are many variations, but the basic idea is for two players to display a number of fingers at the same time, taking turns to try and guess, just before, the total number of fingers that will be shown. If the person guessing is right, the other person drinks a shot.

A popular place to go is a beerhouse—a large hall with oversized tables, resembling a pub. But there are crucial differences. Unlike Westerners, Chinese rarely imbibe without eating at the same time. Though pubs offer finger foods, beerhouses offer full meals. Kegs are set up beside tables, and the fun is on. Eat a little, drink a little, eat some more, drink much more. The Chinese pace themselves, the food absorbing the alcohol. Newly arrived Western visitors tend to dig right in to the first few courses, and soon feel bloated. When in Taiwan, do as the locals do—though when the finger-guessing games start you'd best watch yourself, for the Taiwanese are past masters, and you will surely lose—or win, depending on your love of ale.

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