t's Saturday morning, and Ms. Lee has spread her jade wares on the simple table that makes her booth. She climbs a chair to attach the halogen lights, powered by a portable generator, to the tracks above. In five minutes she is ready to meet the growing crowds.

What crowds? Why, the ones that gather every weekend at the Taipei Holiday Jade Market (台北假日玉市). Located underneath the overpass at Jianguo S. Road (建國南路) and Renai Road (仁愛路), this plethora of stalls is a favorite place for both locals and foreigners to purchase that most treasured of Chinese stones, jade.

Perhaps no other stone in the history of China has so attracted both emperor's and people's attentions. Steeped in legend, sayings, worth and value, jade, "the essence of heaven and earth", dates back as far as the end of the Neolithic period. It is responsible for such sayings as, "the living wear jade as a symbol of their moral integrity, and jade accompanies the deceased to comfort their souls".

Jade makes the perfect gift to give anyone, whether the person is Chinese or not. It symbolizes nobility, constancy, perfection, and immortality. It is said to protect one from evil, and can even bring good luck.

Among other qualities jade is touted to possess is the ability to prevent bodily decay. In the Han Dynasty (漢代; 206 B.C.~A.D. 220), jade burial suits were made of separate plaques that encased the entire body. One such suit found in the tomb of Prince Liu Sheng (劉勝) contained as many as 2,160 plaques.

So, where can you purchase jade? The two hottest spots in town are the Taipei Holiday Jade Market, mentioned above, and its parent market, the Guanghua Market (光華商場) at Shinsheng South and Bade Roads (新生南路及八德路). The Taipei Holiday Jade Market, with the overpass above, is more protected and has hundreds of vendors. Guanghua Market is more spread out and stretches out along nearby streets, lined with stalls and shops. It, however, is also open on weekdays.

Both markets provide jade of all shapes, sizes, and value. There are pendants, bracelets, statues—you name it, they will have it. Ever present are the traditional "pi" (璧), round ceremonial ornaments with a hole in the center that honor the gods of the heavens, and the "tsung" (琮), long hollow jade ornaments with rectangular sides that honor the gods of the earth.

There are, of course, other tables with amber, gold, pearls, and precious stones. One of my favorites is to find a jade table where anything on it is NT$300; you may not get a rare gem, but if you want to load up on thoughtful little gifts, this approach can't be beaten.

For those at the Taipei Holiday Jade Market, if you want a respite from jade you can cross to the south side of Renai Road and visit the Taipei Holiday Flower Market, also open on weekends.

These two jade markets are within walking distance of each other (a good distance; allow 20 minutes) and are easily accessible using any east-west city buses. Take one that runs down Renai Road for the Taipei Holiday Jade Market and one that runs down Jungshiau E. Road for Guanghua. You can also reach Guanghua by using the east-west Pan-Nan MRT line (板南線); get off at the Chunghsiao Hsinsheng station (忠孝新生站) and walk north to Bade Road (two minutes).

However, these two markets are not the only shows in town. A third reliable place is the Chinese Handicraft Mart of the Taiwan Handicraft Promotion Center (台灣手工藝推廣中心中華工藝所;

Why? The Mart is the only government-sponsored, nonprofit organization devoted to the promotion of Taiwan handicrafts, jade included. It is set up for tourists, so don't worry about speaking English. You will likely find this an excellent place for one-stop shopping for all types of Chinese arts and crafts.

Another similar place is the Taiwan Arts and Handicraft Center (台安手工藝品有限公司) Beian Road (北安路577號), not too far east from the American Club in Taipei (台北市美僑協會) and the Martyrs' Shrine (忠烈祠), both east of The Grand Hotel (圓山大飯店). Here too are jewelry, pendants, statues, etc., with any visit made user-friendly by the bilingual staff.

For high-end jade shopping try the Jungguo DaDuHuei Cultural Artifacts Plaza (中國大都會) at B1, 291, Sungjiang Road (松江路291號B1). Here there are many shops that specialize in antique jade bowls, statues, and decorative items.

For simply viewing jade, a visit to the National Palace Museum at 221, Jrshan Road (至善路221號) provides you with plenty to see in the permanent exhibit of Chinese jade. Here you can learn more about jade's history and types as well as see pieces from the various dynasties. The most famous work is the Jadeite Cabbage (翠玉白菜), adorned with grasshoppers, a Ching Dynasty in which the craftsmen used the natural green and white colors of the stone to carve a realistic cabbage stalk.

At the museum you will find information on the two types of internationally recognized jade, nephrite and jadeite. Nephrite, which is primarily from the Xinjiang (新疆) region in northwest China (and is also sourced in Taiwan), has tended to be most commonly used in Chinese art. But during the Ching Dynasty jadeite was imported to China from Burma; nowadays artists source it from Canada, Korea, and Thailand.

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